February 2018 - The first 'Anábasi 300'
I signed up a couple of months ago, despite the fact that my bike was not suitable, too heavy and obsolete for that type of event, but I wanted to test myself because for three years I had been hearing very good things about this 'tough Anábasi' signed Moto Club Umbria.
Doubtful about my abilities as a driver, I agreed with the organisers that I would go, but if I felt I was in trouble, I would drop out.
What gave me the courage to undertake 'the enterprise' was the fact that I had already participated in events created by them and was pleasantly impressed by the excellent organisation down to the last detail. One feels safe, even lost in the middle of the woods, monitored by an efficient and well-planned organisational system: 'stamps, path openers, photographers, etc.' that leaves nothing to chance... the years of experience are visible!
Hard-headed, I started training in the gym to at least arrive physically prepared and I planned a motorbike outing every weekend in January and February to improve my technique a little.
I took the bike to Pisa in December, to Andrea, a friend who is a mechanic and rally driver, to change the mono, handlebars, tyres and fix everything a bit, including the road book, for the big event.
If one had gone straight, it's Tuesday, in three days the Anábasi leaves...for various reasons the bike is still in Pisa, I haven't used it for two and a half months, I've just come down with the flu and I feel like a wreck.
The plan would be to go on Wednesday to pick up the bike, combining it with a work appointment in the area, then go straight down to Piegaro and thus have time to test the bike on Thursday at leisure.
Bad weather is forecast for the weekend and a series of various problems in the family is making me think a lot about whether to leave or give up.
Hard-headed, I go anyway, a little with my heart in my throat and the knowledge that perhaps I should have returned earlier than expected.
Wednesday all goes well, I set off calmly, retrieve the bike, set it up properly and arrive in Piegaro when it is already dark.
Lorenzo, Elio and the others from the 'Da Elio' restaurant welcome me warmly, unload the bike and park it in their garage.
Shower, dinner, talk and to bed, I am very tired.
Thursday, breakfast and then I'll get dressed as a bike, I'm anxious to see how it goes with new handlebars and mono.
I have a route explained to me, without getting stuck in places that are too difficult, and I start the bike... or rather I try to!
It won't start, it has always struggled when cold and it's cold here, it snowed during the night, you can see the hills around it all white.
I kick, kick, pull and close the air, accelerate and kick slowly, then try to kick hard again...nothing, it doesn't want to start!!!
I check the petrol, there is indeed little in it, I put it in reserve, and it shudders.
I go with the car and the tank, dressed as a motorbike to the nearest petrol station.
I come back, fill the tank and it still won't start, I put it back in reserve and it finally gives signs of life... maybe the tap needs changing.
I keep the throttle a little bit otherwise it goes off... I start anyway!
Stunning: there is snow whitening the olive trees, a few clouds giving way to blue skies, the clear air sweeping the gaze over the fantastic hills and a shy sun illuminating Trasimeno seen in the distance.
The bike is still acting up, yet it should be warm by now...I can feel it revving down to the point of shutting down even while running.
I stop and do one of the few things I know how to do to the engine: I raise the idle speed, but I don't even remember which way to turn! By trial and error (luckily there are only two) it starts singing happily again and doesn't give any more problems.
I get onto a dirt road that passes under snow-covered trees, the ground is soggy and slippery, but the bike has no problem, composed and stable...could it be the mono, the tyres, the handlebars?
Anyway thanks Andrea, it feels like another bike!!!
Sure enough, I take a wrong turn and find myself in front of a sheep pen.
As I try to turn the bike around, three white Maremmani dogs run towards me with an unfriendly air, pass through the holes in the fence and approach me, barking.
I am not afraid of dogs, I always stop and they have never done anything to me, I have a helmet, boots, protection, I don't feel in danger, I would certainly risk more trying to escape.
I turn off the bike, take off my mask, crouch down at their height and stretch out a hand to let them sniff me, this is usually a behaviour that dogs like, they have to be the ones to approach.
In fact they stop barking, one continues to growl, but stays away! The boldest one comes closer and lets me stroke his chin, then a little scratch behind the ears and we are now friends.
The second one approaches and he too allows himself to be cuddled.
The third one keeps glaring at me, but he approaches slowly, until he makes room for himself among the others... "guys, don't fight, there are three of you and I only have two hands!!!"
I laugh, I cuddle them and I feel alive!!!
Unfortunately I can't stay with them for long, I get up and one of them lays his paws on my chest, we look into each other's eyes...'wow, you're big!!!', last cuddle, I turn the bike around, start it up and set off.
They accompany me barking happily for about a kilometre and then I continue and they go back to the sheep... "I will come back to see you, I promise!!!"
I take the reverse route back to Piegaro and the snow is already melting.
Tomorrow it gets serious, hopefully sunny.
In the afternoon, Filippo, president of the motorbike club and organiser of the Anábasi, arrives.
I help him prepare the gadgets for the event together with Maria and the Moto Club boys.
The first participants and some familiar faces arrived, whom I greet with great pleasure.
At dinner we eat very well and joke about motorbikes and anecdotes.
In particular with Tequila, a friend from Bologna, when we met he told me:
"What are you doing here?"
"I am participating in the Anábasi!"
"What motorbike?"
"With XT!"
"You are not well!!!"
"I know!!!" (and laughing)
"But are you alone?"
"Yes!"
"Leave with me tomorrow!"
"But I go slow..."
"Tomorrow you leave with me... closed!"
I smile and do not rebel...thank you Tek!
Friday is the big day, we start at two o'clock!
Against my will they'll make me leave first, "you're slow, leave first, otherwise you'll arrive tonight!" ...nice one, but he's right! I'm slow and that's exactly why I wanted to start among the last ones, I don't like 'getting in the way of traffic' and if I try to go faster I risk falling, I've already experienced that!
OK, I will pass them on as they get closer.
In the morning it's not raining, but it's cloudy...it will be what it will be, now I'm here and I'm leaving!
I try to start the bike and it doesn't want to know. Well, it must be the cold, but strange, I used it yesterday...kick, kick, but the only thing that starts is some useless swear words. Alvise, member and press officer of Moto Club Umbria passes by... "Can I try?!" ...three kicks of his and the bitch sings happily!!!
While it warms up I sort out a few things and tools to take with me, everyone says I carry too many things, maybe they are right, but it is better to have more, to me or to others, they have always come in handy.
In the meantime Lillo, vice-president, and the guys from Moto Club Umbria help me mount the new trip that Alvise kindly brought me. Five of them to fix my trip...I just met them and I already love them!!!
It's one o'clock, and it's starting to rain!
I go quickly to eat something while thinking of home...I am reckless, with all the health problems which already exist in my family, I am here doing a route which is more demanding than my abilities, with an unsuitable motorbike and in the rain, risking hurting myself and then becoming a burden instead of a help...I should be here to enjoy myself, instead I am inevitably down in the dumps! I cross a few glances and smiles from those who know me and regain some confidence "everything will be fine!"
The bike WON'T start... "what the fuck is wrong with you that you won't start!!!" ...I'm furious, in the rain suit I look like a diver and I'm kicking the sauna!!!
Passes Stefano, known as 'the gymnast' member of the hard core of Moto Club (honestly from the nickname I expected it more robust, I do not say and laugh) ... 'can I try?!' ... I get off the bike with a resigned air and I think 'try all, I just need it to start' ... a single kick and goes in motion ... I do not add anything else! He teases me, I let him do it and I joke too!
Tequila comes looking for me "they already called us!" ... "worse than at work gee, it's two and three minutes!!!"
We set off and it's raining a lot ... "Tek, you go ahead, otherwise everyone will catch up with us right away!"
Tequila is good at both motorcycling and sailing, it is a nice luxury to have him with me, also because it is only the third time I have used a road book.
I find it a video game, like the aeroplane game I used to play as a child, but in '6D', very fun and intuitive, but, like video games, you have to play a lot to get good and fast.
After not even 2 km there is a ford, I love fords, and then it is already raining and I am dressed, no problem...I think, but I think badly!
Standing on the footpegs and weight back, I plunge into the water...the bike goes off at the deepest point...nooo!
Inevitably I put my feet down and feel the water coming in from above my boots... all day with my feet soaking, wonderful!
The Tek looks at me from the opposite bank and a little cloud appears, as in the comic strips, with his thoughts written 'see that you go out alone, I don't want to get my feet wet!'
Kick and it doesn't start, kick harder and the wave starts with 'balls washing' (quoted by the Octopus) ... but fortunately also the bike.
I get out of the ford, stand on the footplates and feel the water, which came in from I don't know where, run down my legs and I think "we're off to a good start!!!", but I smile!!!
The route is indeed challenging, the goggle fogs up and I take it off almost immediately.
At the first muddy slope, the bike goes sideways and I lay down ... rrrhhh!
As I try to lift it, Tek comes down to help me and some motorbikes already arrive from behind.
I restart, I don't lose heart, I decide to try how it goes from here to the first asphalt and then I'll see what to do.
The route continues between 'fun' climbs and descents, but I no longer fall and at the first asphalt road I follow the Tek and the road book that will take me to the next dirt road.
It continues to rain, but I don't even feel it, I'm not cold and I have regained confidence.
At a crossroads, number 55 approaches, I found out after a while that it was Ettore, a friend from FB whom I had met in person only yesterday. He asked if he could follow us, because his trip was not working and his companions had moved on.
I start off cuddled by a guide and a broom... I smile and think "double luxury!"
The course is really tough, alone inside my helmet the various suggestions of friends echo in my mind: 'never let off the gas', 'ceeraaaa', 'let it flow', 'pretend you know how to do it', etc.
The kilometres flow by and I have fun among the stones and mud and for a while I don't fall any more, sometimes I lay on one side or the other, but I get back up by myself.
On a climb, particularly challenging for me, already concentrated on the route, I hear about ten motorbikes revving up behind me, 'I get to the top and I let them pass', I try to hurry up a little so as not to make them wait too long...bad choice...I accelerate too much, my bike rears up, fortunately I don't hit my head and I stop against the mountain, Ettore is watching the scene. I wave to everyone to pass and rest for a while, then I set off again and go up, always under the watchful eye of Ettore.
For now I can manage on my own, but having him back there gives me security. He says he doesn't mind being with me and going slow, that the trip doesn't work for him anyway, but who knows how he's always up to date with the notes and knows better than I do where we are...thanks!!!
It's still raining, by now the mask is dirty inside and out, I drive without it, I dodge branches, but one catches my eye, it hardly does anything to me, but I lose my balance, fall and break the clutch lever.
The Tek has moved on, but behind me like a shadow is Ettore, helping me to straighten the bike, which starts without a whim.
I have a very short clutch lever, I use it anyway, now there are the last few notes to go, but I hope there are no 'bad' climbs.
Needless to say, after the bend there is the most bastard climb of the day, or at least to me, with my short lever, added to my tiredness, it seemed so bastard!
I don't fall, but my bike dies with every stone I pass...she poor thing always starts up again. Kindly Ettore, after the umpteenth time watching me kick, proposes to swap bikes, his is lighter and has no problems with the levers.
Hard-headed more than usual, I reply a dry but amused "Never!!! I have to carry it up!" and we laugh. Two guys from Moto Club Umbria are there to lend a hand, after my affirmation a jubilant "Go!!! Way to go!!! Bad!!!"
Towards the end of the climb I practically have 'my guts in my hands', but the only thing I accept is a push from Ettore who, with fatherly patience, helps me as one does with children.
At the top is Tequila, waiting in the rain. Seeing me arrive he lights up, also with the look of a patient and proud dad!
I am bruised, soaked, muddy and tired...but happy, so happy I can't find words to describe it!!!
"We 'fix' the lever by jamming the spark plug key onto the remaining butt, a piece of wire and a couple of turns with American tape, a masterpiece and off we go!
I arrive 'at the base' and I am really so pleased that I managed to make it all the way around!
I park and take a shower...everything else can wait.
A friend from Trevi arrives, he couldn't attend, but he came by on purpose to say hello...these are things that make one happy!!!
At dinner we laugh, joke, eat and drink a little too much, moving from table to table to greet various friends.
Beautiful day, beautiful evening and then everything went well...I go to bed with a smile!!!
Saturday we leave at 9:00 a.m., early again today...oof!!!
The kilometres will be many, but it seems, and I hope, smoother than yesterday.
I get up early, I have to have time to start the bike without help...like a good little man...my pride depends on it...and I laugh mocking myself!!!
Today it is not raining, in fact a shy sun seems to be keeping us company.
I dress in the Moto Club Umbria uniform, new for the occasion.
The bike kicks off on the third kick... "obnoxious, I could have slept half an hour more!!!" but better that way.
I go to the start and the Tek arrives immediately, ready to go!
"Yes, but poor guy, it's not fair for him to be my 'wet nurse' today too...now I'll see how smooth the route is, then if necessary I'll let him go...of course the kilometres are many and yesterday, which was about half of today's, it would have taken me at least two hours longer if I had had to navigate!" my thoughts travel as I follow him, keeping the notes updated.
Shortly afterwards, the Tek lets me pass and leads the way. Ooohh ... if I was going slowly before, now more so and I laugh!
Behind me a motorbike with 'ORG' written on it and the go-pro, follows me almost from the start... 'Filippo sent this!!!'... and I laugh, as I vainly try to do my best, I follow the road book carefully, there is a nice stony descent, I better watch where I put the wheels!
End of the descent, the note said 'turn right', the trip matches, OK... there's no one behind me!
"I was going too fast and I lost them??!!!" A moment of healthy self-irony and I burst into an absurd laugh...alone, like an idiot!
I look at the road book holder and see that the glass covering the paper is missing, the mystery is revealed, they noticed it... they, I didn't... and they are looking for it.
No sooner said than done, along comes Giuseppe a.k.a. Margi, one of the Sibyl trio, a company that builds and rents road-book holders, who unzips my jacket and hands me back the pieces of my box...sooner or later I'll buy a serious one made by them, this one is falling apart!
I fix it with duct tape...I have half the bike held together with duct tape...and I laugh as the Tek arrives, who doesn't miss a chance to capture the scene.
We set off again, I lead the way, I laugh thinking about how good it is to enduro ... the 'roll' says 'slippery ford' ... Ford? Slippery? Where?
It is the driest spot I have seen in three days!
I stop to consult with the Tek...the Tek isn't there...I'm definitely LOOKING!!!
I go back and find him again at the crossroads where I took a wrong turn, Dan San also arrives and they make fun of me...I joke about it and off we go!
"Go on, Tek, you lead the way!"
At the famous slimy ford, we are joined by Roberto, known as Bobo, a friend of Enduro Polesano, I'm glad to see him!
I tell him to go on, but he refuses, he is tired of chasing his son Luca and decides to stay with us.
The kilometres pass and I arrive at the first stamp control, where Tek has been waiting for me for who knows how long... with a nod from afar he asks me if Bobo is with me and if he can go ahead 'yes Tek go!'... he was far too patient, but he made sure I wasn't alone... thank you!
Bobo lets me navigate, I do it carefully and I do quite well.
A little later we meet a loner, Pietro, number 6, he stays behind me and lets me lead the way.
The route is actually much smoother than yesterday, the temperature is acceptable, it's not cold even if it's a bit windy, the sun appears at times or at least it doesn't rain, last night I cleaned my mask well with toothpaste (a technique I learnt while freediving) and it doesn't fog up any more... all these circumstances leave me time to relax for a moment and admire the beautiful Umbrian hills.
I have never ridden the bike on instinct, let alone off-road. A trivial distraction and a trivial puddle in a straight and almost level dirt road is enough to knock me out like Bambi on ice.
Bobo had gone ahead, he was leading the way, and Pietro had just passed me, to cheerfully take a little muddy climb.
Motorbike on the ground, leg underneath, in the mud ... a nervous "how the hell did I fall here?!"
The peace of mind that I have nowhere to go and that someone will pass by sooner or later, or that Bobo and Pietro will come back if they don't see me coming, makes me examine the situation with lucidity.
With my free foot I push the saddle and manage to get my leg out from under the bike.
I try to lift it, but I slip in the mud and I'll never make it anyway as it has wheels towards the hill.
I take it by the parcel rack and, without too much gentleness, I pivot it 180° around the footboard. Now I lift it up with ease, try to start it and it starts at the first stroke ... what a bike!!!
Bobo comes back and soon after so does Pietro...good to know they are there, but what a satisfaction to manage on my own.
Andrea and his group pass us, they stop shortly afterwards, so I can say hello and tell him that the bike is much better with the modifications he has made!
He looks at my lever repaired with American tape and nods disapprovingly saying "I brought you a lever!"...thank you!!!
We set off again, the swamp awaits us and after the swamp, the uphill swamp too...XT struggles and I struggle more than her.
I can see the ditches going up, pawing, but going up!!!
I'm looking for second, maybe I'm going better, second doesn't go in, the lever is stuck, the clutch has heated up!
I don't have many choices, I have to wait!
Bobo and Pietro wait with me, chatting about this and that and joking around, as calm, carefree and happy as children, with their feet dipped in the mud, riding a motorbike that seems to have the power to banish all negative thoughts.
I have tried many times to explain these feelings to those who do not like motorbikes, but I have surrendered to appreciating them with those who experience them, namely strangers, like Pietro whom I met an hour ago, with whom a glance is worth more than many speeches.
In two willing to stay with me even today, I start to suspect that the organisation sends them and I laugh inside my helmet, because Filippo wanted to 'glue' me a track-closer so as not to do the route alone, but I refused in a very 'pissed off' way telling him that if I had seen a motorbike with ORG written on it following me too much, I would have taken the asphalt and come back without doing the route...instead so I can't say anything, on the contrary, I can only be happy!
I'll try to start again!
I try to lift my left foot, but it is stuck to the ground, it sucks in the mud that seems to have sucked up my boot... laughing, I lean to the right and manage to pull off the sole that carries with it a good 10 cm of mud stuck underneath... and I laugh!
Trying to clean the sole on the platform, I fill it with mud too, but that's OK too... as I keep laughing.
After a while, the second enters and I set off again convinced! I go up, pawing, but I go up... I am 100 metres away from a less swampy 'road', or at least not uphill.
Shortly afterwards there is the refreshment bar, we eat very well: pie, sausage, pâté, toast and soup...I ate in that order, I know, I should have done it the other way round, but with the hunger I had, it's fine all the same!
Luckily the Moto Club Umbria calls them 'snacks', if they called them 'lunches' what would they prepare? and laugh!
Bobo jokes and reminds me that I have another 90 km to go, 'don't gorge yourself please!' While with Poldoc and Lupa, also from Enduro Polesano, we are just being rude children, with 'tunnel accidents', sausages eaten maliciously, and 'free burping'...what idiots and laughing...if my son did it I would fill him with words and if it were him here who knows how many he would say to me...and I laugh!
Andrea arrives with my lever in his hand, the one fixed with tape, and lays it on the table... while I was eating and being an idiot with the others, he was changing my lever... professional deformation his!!!
Almost sorry that I no longer have my 'original' lever, I get up and go to the bike. Before setting off I check the rear brake because in the last few kilometres I was struggling to find the pedal.
You can see that with the fall I had twisted the bracket stop, Andrea tried to straighten it, but it broke completely... 'I'm going anyway, it's a bit uncomfortable, but it works!'... typical enduro mentality... and I laugh!
We set off again and Bobo leads the way keeping a nice, upbeat pace.
My trip leaks km, maybe the sensor has shifted. Not having anything better the guys had attached it with zip ties and American tape, too good, I'll fix it tonight.
Pietro behind me, watching me as I risk a few straights to try countersteering corners. The new handlebar is fantastic, my old one was now 'ox horns' with all the knocks it had taken.
Three notes are missing. Looking at the drawings and the road I try to keep up to date, as I am sure Ettore did yesterday. Bobo stops and with smiling eyes tells me 'you go ahead!', I understand on the fly that he wants me to lead the group...cuddled to the end I set off and cover the last few kilometres with the satisfaction of having won the Dakar!
They treat me like a child, of course, I act like one... and I'm happy!!!
Hot shower, then down to fix the bike and change the road book for tomorrow.
I can't do anything to the rear brake, it will remain 'uncomfortable'; while the sensor was just dirty with mud.
Tonight party with all the members.
We eat very well at Elio's, Stefano a.k.a. 'Motosax' and I even have an encore of the cake, an exceptional tiramisu!
I have the honour of being at the table with the Moto Club Umbria guys, but I still go to the other tables to say hello to everyone.
Some people are worried about the weather tomorrow, snow is forecast both here and throughout the Apennines, so the problem is not only the bike ride, but also the journey home.
There are three alternatives: leave tomorrow morning and forego the motorbike tour, but have no problem getting home; leave after the motorbike tour and risk column and snow on the road; leave Monday morning.
I phone for advice ... at home the problems that were there when I left seem to have stabilised and, understanding or resigned to my madness, Giorgio tells me 'The baby is calm, the rest is under control. In the meantime finish the motorbike ride, then come back when you can!"...thank you, even these words allow me to enjoy myself when I am away.
I go to bed tired, but serene and satisfied.
It's Sunday, I slept little and badly, I had a sore throat, a 'runny' nose and I was breathing hard. At half past three I woke up the dormitory and took a tachypirine, only then was I able to sleep.
At 7 a.m. the alarm clock goes off at 8.30 a.m. for a change.
The Tek has bike problems, and he went to the SPA...great endurist the Tek, I should learn from him!!!
Bobo left to return home this morning, he cannot afford unforeseen circumstances on the road, on Monday Luca must be at work.
Like Bobo, Poldok and Lupa also left.
Ettore and Pietro I don't know, I'm not looking for them, having already done the 'babysitting shift' day, if they're on the bike today, it's only right that they have fun.
I come down for breakfast already dressed as a motorbike and eat like I haven't seen food for three months!
It's starting to snow outside and it's cold, very cold.
The motorbike doesn't want to start... the Gym-fanatic passes by, he doesn't say anything, he looks at me and the motorbike, with his calm manner... I laugh and the motorbike starts... he rightly takes the credit!
I really do go off on my own, but I don't worry, at the very least the track enforcers will find me lost somewhere... and I laugh!
The route today should be somewhere between Friday and Saturday in terms of difficulty, and indeed it is: 'fun' stretches alternating with quieter ones.
Ready to pass the first ford, I see the photographers... "be good!", standing on the footpegs, weight back, open throttle, water, splashes... "good, you did good!!!"...I talk to the bike, but I found out I wasn't the only one...and I laugh!!!
After a few kilometres the bike starts acting up, it tends to shut down, I try to put it in reserve, adjust the idle speed, but nothing, this is the third time it has shut down.
I'm alone in the middle of the forest, with a climb I just made downhill behind me and a ford, followed by a climb, in front of me...practically in a hole, with the bike that won't start...how I would like the 'magic look' of the Gymnast...and still I laugh!
Ahead, across the ford, some bushes are moving, I think it might be some motorbikes, but I don't hear the sound of the engine, a photographer here is unlikely, it will be some animal, and I go back to thinking about the motorbike.
"It could be worse, it could rain!!!" (very famous quote that I often repeat) in fact it starts to rain... "all that's missing is that I'm going to get a hole", no, don't even think about it and in any case I have levers and a camera... and I'm laughing to myself. I have the certainty of an excellent organisation, I'm right on track, bad luck they'll find me and I don't worry.
I decide to put the kickstand to kick more forcefully while standing, but the muddy ground does not approve of my brilliant idea and I risk falling. I look around and look for some stones or branches to put under the kickstand to prevent it from sinking into the mud, but to get off I will have to sacrifice a glove, as is done on sand, otherwise it won't even stand on its own.
While I meditate on what to do, a motorbike arrives from behind and, sensing my difficulties, stops. It is number 101, whom I will call 101 all day long, without ever asking his name.
I explain the problem to him and he balances the bike for me while I kick upright... three 'pedal strokes' and off we go!!!
Well, you can come out of the hole!!!
"You want to go ahead, I'm going slow!" I tell him and he kindly says "no, you go ahead, so we'll see if the bike still gives you problems"...thank you!
I navigate, but the route here is a bit challenging and slippery, I can't look at the roll and also can't drive, so I decide to follow the tracks left by the tyres of the motorbikes that have passed before me, it looks like an 'Ariadne's thread' and I only use the road book as confirmation.
A big boar crosses my path less than 100 metres away, instinctively I stop the bike, but I don't turn it off... "these are not little dogs!", turning around is impossible, but maybe the noise of the engine keeps them away. It's not the first time I've found them and they're usually never lonely, in fact after 'big daddy' 5/6 puppies and a couple of 'mommies' pass by. Along comes 101 behind me and I wave to them to wait. Another 10/15 boars of various sizes pass by, all on the same path as the first one, they look like a little train on a track... "lucky I stopped, there was one watching before I crossed the road"...I'm happy!
I watch for any other suspicious movements in the bushes and depart, 101 with me.
The kilometres pass, the bike seems to go, it no longer rains, but it snows and well too!
At this point the notes become written in white on a black background, it is time to choose whether to take the easy or the difficult route.
I ask 101 what he wants to do and he replies "let's play hard to get! Are you up for it?" ... "if you come with me, yes! Once the difficult part is over, maybe go without waiting for me!"
I push forward the 'black' notes and slip into the path, he is cleaning his glasses, he will catch up with me later.
I've given up on the mask, the flakes stick to the outside, I can't clean it on the run because I have mud-soaked gloves and anyway, toothpaste or not, it fogs up on the inside.
At the stamp control I find Maria and Daniele, I am happy to see them and tell them that everything is fine, they are colder than me standing there in the snow waiting for us.
The beginning of the 'difficult' is not that difficult, no more so than the rest, and I suspect that it was just a system of the organisation to check who was willing to put in the effort...after encountering a couple of challenging climbs I change my mind.
I fall and 101 always ready to help me, even if I try to do it myself.
I had done worse climbs on Friday, but fatigue sets in.
The three kilometres of asphalt to get to the petrol station are enough to freeze. I haven't put on my rain suit yet, but I'll take advantage of the stop to get dressed, I have a jumper inside my rucksack, I'll put that on too.
Hands no problem, wet and light gloves, but I'm not cold... I would never give up my heated mittens, even if everyone makes fun of me.
At the gas station bar we find Stefano Serra and his group, they offer me a hot chocolate with cream and a cannolo with Nutella...I eat them very happily, as if I hadn't had breakfast...I chat, rest and laugh!
Some people wash the bike, they'll probably come back for asphalt, but it's so cold, it's not a good idea, on dirt roads you move around and get warm.
It's raining, I put on my 'diver's uniform' and, fully dressed, complete with balaclava (a black balaclava that only lets my eyes see), I think it would be a good idea to clean the mask, but the only handkerchiefs I have are soaked.
I approach a lady in a car, stopped to fill up with petrol ... she looks at me badly, but badly, as if I were an ugly alien or who knows what kind of ferocious monster, a maniac or a robber! I greet her and with impudent politeness ask her for a tissue, specifying 'dry please' ... she shuts up, without even replying to my greeting and continuing to look at me suspiciously (more than the Maremmani on Thursdays), she hands me two tissues ... I smile at her (but it doesn't show) and thank her.
We set off again, with a clean mask the icy rain no longer hurts my eyes, and I think 'did the lady realise how kind she was?
The olive trees and shrubs along the path are all snow-covered... a dreamlike panorama!
We arrive at the stamp, Motosax and Nik are waiting festively for us.
Then there's a slippery, stepped descent, I go too slow, stop against the face of the mountain and the bike shuts down...my fault this time.
Kicking it doesn't start, but I'm on a downhill slope and I go down some more, I put it in second gear with the intention of starting it up on the run, but I do a circus-like traverse and the engine stays off... 'I don't have the hair on my stomach to do these things properly!'... and I laugh along with 101, who witnesses the scene between amused and worried.
I kick and like a good girl my XT starts, I pull myself up from the traverse and resume the descent.
I ask him if he wants to go ahead "by now the bike is fine!"... "no, don't worry, I'm used to broom at the outings organised by my group and then I'd feel guilty abandoning you here!" ...OK, I have no more doubts, they are part of the 'organisational kit' and I laugh!!!
My trip loses km, maybe it is still dirty and I am running 101.
There is no shortage of mud, slimy enough to feel like ice skating, and we joke about it.
He drives almost backwards, ready to stop to help me or not to miss my fall.
In one of the many large puddles, my bike jolts, I don't fall, but I remain on balance, unable to get off or put it back on straight... he doesn't miss the scene, shouts at me 'don't drop it' and looks for a place to park his, which is not easy.
He walks back and says "we could do with a photo!" ... "go ahead and take the photo!" and I laugh!
Now that he finds the phone under 4/5 layers and takes those 30/40 shots...I'm still there good, hovering above the swamp laughing my ass off!!!
After my umpteenth clumsy joker, 101 wants to be able to follow me without anguish and insists on having a look at my trip, this time the sensor had shifted.
I lead the way, in fact the trip still loses km, but I follow the tracks on the path, they are many and clearly visible, I stay up to date with the notes, the drawings and symbols help a lot, if I have doubts I stop and ask 101!
I take a wrong turn a couple of times, I realise this because I can no longer see any tracks on the ground and there is no 101 light in the mirror. I turn back and find him patiently waiting for me at the crossroads.
On a climb with a slippery rock slab ... I slip!
I do not find the 'awkward' brake pedal in time and roll down as 101 arrives, who dodges me with great skill, but is more scared than I am.
All is well, no one is hurt, we straighten up the footplate with the tyre-removal levers and off we go.
We are almost at the end, thankfully, I am really tired, but only physically, morale is soaring!!!
The last few quiet kilometres and I see, like an apparition from Fatima, Lillo (vice president of Moto Club Umbria) waiting for us at Elio's.
He reads the satisfaction in my eyes and looks at me chewing a "brava!" ...a brava from the Lillo???!!! NO, I definitely misunderstood...and I laugh!!!
There's also Caterina, Filippo's sister, I tell her "I did it all the way, even the difficult bit!", she smiles at me and the Lillo "we know!" ... "how do you already know?"
I say goodbye to 101 and go to take the bike to the garage, the idea was to load it straight onto the trolley and then take a 2-hour hot shower.
Filippo (president of Moto Club Umbria) comes towards me with camera in hand. As I see him, before even taking off my helmet, I enthusiastically state "I did everything, even the difficult bit, I was with 101, he kept me company all day!!!" ... "we know! You were with Claudietto!"
I later found out that in the Whatsapp group all the Moto Club guys knew where I was and with whom, in real time at every stamp, photographer or pass and not only for me, but also communicated any problems and/or difficulties of the various participants... what can I say, nothing!!!
Philip takes a couple of photos and invites me upstairs
"I load the bike and arrive"
"No get in, there are people waiting for you."
"I'll at least take off my boots and helmet."
"No salt"
"But dirty..."
He jokingly grabs me by the chin guard of my helmet and, with a firm and amused manner, repeats
"GET ON!!!"
...he's not a guy you can contradict much...
I arrive in the dining room of the restaurant with my boots full of mud, my rain suit broken in several places, my helmet still on my head, and I find a jubilant crowd, complete with photographers... I feel like crying, but little men should not cry!
I did not expect to finish the tour, just as I did not expect all those people, almost all of them little more than acquaintances, happy for me!
I take off my helmet and see Lupo... I start hugging him without thinking that I would have inevitably soiled him and he didn't care either! With Lupo we love each other very much, I did not know that he would come to wait for me at the arrival, Franz is there too and the surprise of seeing them there was wonderful!!!
While I eat, a lot and well, at Elio's there is really good food, Filippo does the awards ceremony at the end of the event... Ugo next to me teases me 'Stop eating! Don't get distracted! Start getting up!" ...there's a prize for me too, I'll keep it as a souvenir of my satisfaction, as a reminder of the people who helped me to complete this tiring event!
Lupo and Franz help me load the bike and I greet them.
Now hot shower!
I pack my bags, we go home.
Greetings to the Moto Club guys, I will be back in April for the Umbria rally anyway, they promised it will be a much less demanding route and I can't miss it!!!
I find traffic and snow along the road, but only for 25/30 km.
I am happy!!! As I drive I want to sing, but I have a sore throat and less and less voice. I phone a few friends to tell them about the weekend, but I really struggle to talk.
In the car I think back over the route, the people who helped me and what it would have been like without them.
Would I have made it to the end anyway? No! Alone from the whole, on any given day without the support of at least the organisation, a route like that? I wouldn't have even started!
Would the Moto Club guys have helped me? Definitely YES! But maybe I would have given up sooner!
The trip, even if it had worked perfectly, would have taken me much longer to navigate, I'm not saying I would have stopped at every note, but almost. Not to mention the time I would have wasted 'grazing and searching'.
I think back to the moments of uncertainty, when even knowing that I was in company helped me to face obstacles alone, but with more determination.
The crashes, some sudden, some trivial. I did the most damage to the bike in the two stupid ones. "The important thing is not to get hurt' ... great and absolute truth!
I think back to repairs 'on the fly', using what little one has. Could I have done it alone? Maybe, but it's more fun in company!
The bike on the ground, would I always be able to lift it by myself? Maybe, but not for three days, then my back would complain!
The moments alone...alone I have never been!
It's great to enduro and it's great to do it in company! Even of people you've just met, who come back as children like you to play with the mud! Had I started earlier!!!
I think back on life in general, how much it resembles enduro, my determination and my recklessness ... I arrive home tired, voiceless, but happy!!!
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